Unfinished business

A little belated this one.  On Sunday I was on the path at Lulworth Cove just after 7 to walk the missing link that was shut by the army last week.  The walk to Kimmeridge Cove was tough and not helped by the fact I had forgotten my Ibuprofen and music.  It took me just under 2.5 hours to walk the 5.5 miles using the beach short cut at Lulworth as I'd done this hill before!  The most suprising thing to me was how hard it was mentally as I had already completed the walk in my mind I didn't have the determined attitude that kept me going before.  At one stage, going back down Warbarrow, I had to sit down and rest as my knee was playing up.  As a footnote, you will be pleased to hear my knees seem to be getting better and it's no longer painful to ride my bike which is a great relief.  It's nice to be home and not have to start walking each morning, and I've had so many messages from friends and family - thank you! 

People are already asking me what I might do next.  Well, I have an idea but it will be on the bike rather than walking.  And not for a while ;-)

Trudge Top Ten - No 1 - Beer

I tried as many varieties on my walk round the coast as I could and if I had to make a choice of my favorite it would be a close thing between Timmy Taylor's Landlord or St Austell's Proper Job.  As it's brewed in Cornwall, I'm going to give it to Proper Job which is a strongly hopped, 5.5% IPA that goes very well with any food or on it's own - Cheers!

Trudge Top Ten - No 2 - The weather

Finishing in the sun

With it being the driest April on record I couldn't have picked a better time to do this walk.  I only walked in the rain for about 5 of the 270 hours and had 2 nights of rain when I was bivvying.

Trudge Top Ten - No 3 - My Boots

Salomon Quest 4D GTX

630 miles and only one blister, which was probably the result of me not drying and removing all the sand after wading across the Erme, my boots were great.  Thanks go to the guys at Salomon in France for the design and the Chinese who made them.  A mention should also go to Paul @ Snow & Rock who made sure they were the right choice.

Trudge Top Ten - No 4 - Helen

I know the plan was to 'bivvy-out most nights' but what with the 2 long bank holiday weekends and Helen wanting to look after me, I only ended up rough camping for 1/3 of the nights.  The rest of the time Helen was on hand in our camper at lunch stops and then with dinner at the end of the long days.  I slept much better in the camper and have BIG respect for anyone doing the SWCP unsupported and camping.

Helen also kept the camper well stocked with my favorite treats, found internet connections to post the blog each day and encouraged me all the way.

Trudge Top Ten - No 5 - Sponsors and Supporters

John pouring the Champagne at finish

To all you people who have sponsored me or sent me messages via the blog or facebook, a big thank you.  Also to all the people I met on the path who not only gave me money towards my charities but raised my spirits with their words of encouragement.   A special mention also goes to those of you who came to walk with me or welcomed me at the finish.

It looks like I will have raised over £1100 for AMR and Dorothy House plus around £200 for the village hall - THANK YOU

Trudge Top Ten - No 7 - Pasties and Ice Cream

Best Icecream @ Cadgwith

Where would a walk be without some treats?  My best pasty of the whole trip was not in Cornwall but just over the border at the NT cafe in Wembury (the coffee here was also one of the best).  As for the ice cream, which has to have a dollop of clotted cream, I think it goes to the cafe in Cadgwith with the one in Sidmouth coming a very close second.

Trudge Top Ten - No 6 - Drugs

Around 4 Ibuprofen a day kept the knee pain to bearable levels.  The real revelation was the Lanacane which cured my chafing 'issue' straight away and certainly did what it said on the box.

Trudge Top Ten - No 8 - Knee Stuff

My Elastoplast knee supports combined with my walking poles got my dodgy knees around the coast.  I knew it was going to hurt when I started the first descent, Bossington Hill, about 7 miles in.  From then on it was slow going on the downs but thankfully it never got much worse during the walk.

Trudge Top Ten - No 9 - Tunes

From Farming Today at 05:45 to music to help me sleep from my i-pod when bivvying out.  I found I walked with something in my ears most of the time from around the halfway point, as it helped distract me from the pain.  If the reception was good I preferred the radio and got quite into the Archers during the walk.

Tudge Top Ten - No 10 - The Path

Path near Bolt Head

Britain's longest walking trail, the South West Coast Path is a beauty.  Thanks to all the councils and volunteers who have cut and maintained the many flights of steps that make it a little easier going up or down.  How they get the materials, let alone do all the work in these remote places is a marvel.  These trail pixies also do a great job of keeping the undergrowth at bay.  My favourite section is from Cape Cornwall to Sennen Cove which has beauty, interest from the tin mines, variety of smooth path, rocks and beach and good food/beer at the end.

Reflections ...

Yesterday's short 16 mile walk from the Square and Compass to the finish was very easy.  Setting off at 7 I arrived in Swanage for breakfast and met up with Helen and the first of my visitors, Paul and Hannah.  Then on via Old Harry Rocks to The Bankes Arms at Studland where I had to stop and have a pint of IPA for each remaining mile (3) then off along the beach for the last time.  At the finish point  at 2pm I had a small welcoming committee with John Osborne providing the champagne, Hannah some white chocolate and Helen the Leffe.  Paul, Joe & Ruth were also there to congratulate me.  I sat here for half an hour before being driven home listening to some of the tunes that had kept me going during the walk.  For some reason (probably beer), I didn't want to take my boots off and finally undid the laces at home much later.  So, thank you for the all the support and I'll be putting my Top 10 up today (Friday).

630 miles done...

Enjoying a Leffe at the finish

Tired but very happy (could that be something to do with the beer?)  Off to bed now but will do a full report and top ten tomorrow.

Last day today!

A frustrating day yesterday when I'm so nearly finished, as a chunk of the path after Lulworth Cove was closed to the public for firing practice.  It was open the day before ... grr.  Anyway, I had to leapfrog it missing 5 1/2 miles, which I'll now have to do on Saturday when it's open.  Apart from that, a very scenic day albeit really hard with a record number of steps in one valley; 198 down and 220 up!  I had to have a pint at the end of the day at the famous cider pub the Square and Compass at Worth Matravers.  It's just like Tucker's Grave but they make their own cider. And no, I didn't drink the cider.

I can't believe it's my last day.  Only 16 miles to go and I hope to finish between 2 and 3pm at South Haven Point.  I'm going to publish my Timmy's Trudge Top 10 in a special edition of this blog tomorrow (Friday).  Today will be a fuzz of beer and elation and going home after 30 days on this path.  A sunny, warm, calm, beautiful morning.

Dorset's toughest ahead

Chris and Dave at Portland

Started early yesterday (7am) and saw the oyster farmers cleaning oysters at Ferry Bridge.  Dave, Chris and Peter joined me by Weymouth's Olympic sailing venue and we set off to find a cafe. We walked all around Portland where there are many quarries and random leftover chunks of rock as big as a Mini.  We rounded Portland Bill after a quick lunch into very strong wind making us lean into it.  A very pleasant walk, though. 

Then, it was back across the causeway and the long trudge into Weymouth.  I insisted on a half hour coffee stop as it was 4pm by now.  Getting up from the table made everyone realise how stiff they were and the pace was slower from here.  I was pleased to get onto cliff paths again after a lot of tarmac and we reach Osmington Mills at 6pm.  Big respect to my walking chums - they'd walked 19 miles.  Peter leading from the front and Dave and Chris doing brilliantly for 2 pensioners!  Sue and Lynn met us at the Smugglers Inn and we enjoyed a well-deserved meal.  I did 27 miles altogether at a faster pace than normal and for the first time my shins hurt and my feet ached from all the tarmac.  Phew!

After a good night's rest I'm facing the 2nd hardest day of the whole path.  19 miles altogether, of which the last 11 are classed as 'severe', and include Durdle Door, Lulworth Cove and the brutal stretch past Kimmeridge.  Never mind, I'm still slightly ahead of schedule and my last day tomorrow should be a little shorter.  I'm hoping to finish around 3 at South Haven Point opposite Sandbanks.  Got to get today out of the way first though. 

I'm planning a small celebration tomorrow by the finish sign, so if any of you fancy a trip to Poole (see above) tomorrow afternoon just ring/text me or leave a comment on this blog (which I do get), then I can give you clearer timing.

3 more days to go

First bit after lunch, rain at top

The walk from Charmouth was pretty hard yesterday, especially going up Golden Cap (highest point on south coast).  Quite a few diversions for landslips and some others which just added more mileage which is the last thing I wanted at this stage.  I got to West Bay to meet H for an early lunch which we had in a fancy coffee shop.  Then the steep, steep climb out to be greeted by rain at the top.  A quick stop to put on my jacket and bottoms before 2 hours of walking in the lashing rain to West Bexington (mustn't grumble as it's only the second time in 4 weeks I've had to walk in the rain).   This was the start of Chesil Beach and plenty of fisherman seemed oblivious to the weather.  Further on after Abbotsbury I took a small diversion to Langton Herring where a lovely pub, the Elm Tree, provided a great meal accompanied by superb beer and allowed us to stay in their paddock for the night - result.

Today Dave Moore and Chris are joining me at Ferry Bridge for the walk around Portland Bill.  Then I hope to finish at Osmington Mill just past Weymouth (slightly ahead of schedule).

Bonus blog

It's behind me

Have a connection and some pics from this morning so here's an extra bit.

It's midday in West Bay and I'm having a beer to celebrate passing the highest point on the whole south coast of England (Golden Cap).

My legs ache

I left Helen still in bed at the campsite yesterday morning and rejoined the path at Weston Mouth and continued towards Beer.  Quite chilly again, but not enough to wear my jacket.  It wasn't too bad, up and downy but I definitely did the hardest bit yesterday.  I walked like a cripple for the first 2 miles but then warmed up and got going.  I have to have music going from the start these days, preferably radio but otherwise iPod. 

At Beer, I went to a great cafe and had perfect poached eggs on toast with a latte.  Only 2 miles then to Seaton for an early lunch with H in the camper watching the last half of Moto 2 and the full Moto GP (Moto 2 was way better).  After this extended lunch break I did a long expanse of path across a Victorian cliff landslide (1890's) which was unusual and 'nadgery'... slightly inland, wooded sometimes covered, narrow and mainly lumpy and tree-rooty.  H met me on this path and we went through a sunny, crowded Lyme Regis to Charmouth.

Today will be quite tough and I've been watching the cliffs appproaching.  One of them is the highest point on the whole South coast of England.   Only 4 more walking days to go.

Dorset here I come

White choc with Maltesers & clotted cream

I've realised that it's taking me longer to get up to speed in the mornings at this stage of the walk.  It's nearly an hour before I'm feeling comfortable and over the worst of the pain and stiffness.  Yesterday's path was mercifully lenient in the early stages to Budleigh salterton where I stopped for lunch. Then, at Sidmouth, as I'd made good time I decided to do the first 2 mega-cliffs of tomorrow's walk.  This meant I could cut across directly to the campsite where H was installed.  Very nice too - Oakdown Holiday Park on the Lyme Regis road.  I even made it in time to sup a beer whilst watching re-runs of Moto 2 and Moto GP qualifying.  Happy day.  And I didn't get rained on although I could often hear nearby thunder, and it had hailed at the campsite before I arrived. 

A young woman stopped me on the path yesterday and asked if I was from Rode.  It was Nigel Pearce's wife from Frome (he compered the village hall quiz).  Small world, and nice to meet a friendly face.

Today, I'm Dorset-bound and, although the planned finish is Lyme Regis, I'm hoping to keep yesterday's advantage and get maybe to Charmouth.  The first 6 miles to Beer is meant to be a super-tough stage but hopefully I cracked the worst of it yesterday.  Fingers crossed.  Less than 100 miles to go now ...

Calm before the storm

View towards Teignmouth

Thankfully an easier day, although a chilly morning.  After a moderate 6 miles to Paignton I had a level walk around the "English Riviera" to Torquay for coffee and cake.  The next 11 miles were much tougher than I thought with many ups and downs on my way to Teignmouth.  The town was as I remembered from childhood, an old-fashioned and quaint seaside town.  The route was eerily quiet with everyone  watching the wedding but a couple of very nice pubs en route were open ;-)  I always listen to the radio where I get reception so got the gist of it.

The final 3 miles to Dawlish followed the Great Western Railway line along the breakwater except for 2 tunnels where I had to go up and over.  Couldn't find anywhere to park the camper near the coast so decided to go inland to some woods.  Found a quiet lay-by but cars kept coming round again and again, staring at us.  After about an hour of this we figured we were in the local dogging zone.   Nobody stayed though, and I was tired so drew the blinds, watched telly and went to bed as usual around 9.

Today I have a short 17 mile day to Sidmouth as I need to keep something in reserve for tomorrow's 'hard as' section.  The forecast is for occasional heavy showers too, so I've packed all my waterproofs.

500 miles

Slapton Sands

This has been the hardest day so far I think (they're becoming a little blurred).  Up and down like a fiddler's elbow non-stop with the big pack in hot weather and 24 miles wasn't easy. Good job I was in reasonable spirits.  Thanks to all of you who've left comments or emailed me - they really encourage me.  

The first few miles were very pleasant, walking through Slapton Sands Nature Reserve stopping to talk to a couple of twitchers to get the lowdown on our feathered friends.  From around mile 4 the up and down started but was especially hard each side of Dartmouth.  I stopped for a crab sandwich at Dartmouth and sat on a bench with an 84 yr old boatbuilder who started work when he was 13 and a half.  He used to be a good xc runner and now has bad knees so we compared notes. I crossed the Dart on the lower car ferry which I would recommend cos it's a tug which articulates onto the barge which turns around using rope linkage and is much more interesting than the passenger boat one. The killer was 2 high cliffs (100m+) in the last quarter of the walk and then a frustratingly long trudge into Brixham harbour where Helen was waiting.

Tired ... wish I could take a day off but only 7 more to go. Camper, beer, shower, food, bed. 

Today should be a relatively easy 22 miles around Torbay to Dawlish although there's a brisk cold wind as I write.  Will miss the royal wedding, shame.

3/4 of the way there

My bivvy spot on the pipe

No milk means no breakfast until a shop at Hope Cove where I sat on a bench and had my cereal and a cup of tea.  The stretch to Salcombe was hard but then I met Richard Maunder, another walker doing the same but in the opposite direction.  I'd seen his info on the coast website http://www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk/walkthepath/charity/ and wondered when we'd meet.  He's aiming to do it in 40 days and is walking around 15-16 miles a day, mixing camping with B&Bs. 

Then my sister Sally arrived to walk with me and after taking another ferry she provided a gorgeous picnic lunch, yum.  It was nice walking but then got very rocky so nice to have company.  After she left I got to my destination of Hallsands but couldn't find anywhere to sleep and carried on to Beesands where you can see my bivvy bag on the shingle.  I've got my first blister on my heel, I think from a bit of sand.  Compeed to the rescue.

I slept very well to the sound of the waves, waking occasionally with cold knees.  I just had to wriggle over and warm them on the Thermarest then back to sleep.  This morning I had a luxurious start: a cup of tea and cereal in my bivvy bag on the beach whilst listening to Farming Today on the radio.  I have a small Jetboil stove which is brilliant and has stripes on the outside which light up when the water's boiling.  V clever.  I'm feeling good - only a week to go so am determined to finish on track, and H is coming down tonight with the camper to meet me in Brixham.

Many rivers to cross

190 actually

Jeremy dropped me back at Mount Batten and walked with me for a mile.  Then it was round the headland past Wembury to wait for another ferry at Warren Point.  What better way to pass the time than a superb coffee and a pasty?  Cadged a lift with a couple of guys being taken to their boat and they dropped me on the other side.  They told me of a Russian guy who'd recently walked the whole path like me, but was 1 day ahead at this point ... grrr.

At Mothecombe there's no ferry and you have to wade across the river.  I had to wait 2 hrs for the tide to recede so I had another pasty and a cup of tea and talked to some walkers.  Finally it was OK to launch but the water was still above my knees (which are higher than most!).   Got dried off and tackled the last 4 tough miles. At the Bigbury-on-Sea ferry point my brother came and gave me a lift round to the other side as the ferries had stopped for the day so at Bantham I settled into the pub for some food and a pint then set off in search of a bivvy spot.

I found some golf huts and set up in there until the swallows nesting above me got their knickers in a twist.  Moved to the hut next door.  Today is 23 miles past Salcombe to Hallsands.

400 miles and Cornwall done

The walk yesterday from Porthwrinkle to Cawsands was much harder than I remembered (H and I did this section last year) and the first 10 miles took me nearly 4 hours.  Then, after coffee and cake, it got much easier through Mount Edgcumbe park to the ferry at Cremyll.  Before boarding the ferry I ate my lunch and had my mandatory nap on the lawn.

After crossing the Tamar I walked another 7 miles around Plymouth, including the Hoe to Mount Batten.  This was in parts a well-signed and scenic walk but at times I had to use my sat nav a lot, and passed industrial estates and sewage works.  Anyway, I caught the ferry back over to the Barbican where my brother Jeremy came to collect me for my first night in a real bed for 3 weeks.  He had also sent Christine out to get provisions so I had a few cans of Speckled Hen to wash the sausage casserole down.  Fed and watered I retired at the usual hour (just after 9).

Today I'm heading for Bigbury-on-Sea via the Wembury ferry.  I then wade across a river which must be timed 1 hour either side of low tide and even then it come over your knees.  Will report on this tomorrow.

A grim morning

Ow .. ow .. ouch

Yesterday was really hard.  Everything was hurting a lot, not just my bad knee (v bad), but my good knee, my legs and even my feet too.  The previous day's harsh terrain had taken its toll and I felt tired and fed-up.  The path was full of continual very tough ups and downs and I counted one lot of steps 186 up and 169 down.  For the first time I thought about not going on.

However, I made it to Looe for lunch in the camper and had lovely sandwiches, a pork pie, and cup of tea and a kip.  The 2-hour stop revived me and I felt much better as I headed out around the harbour.  I finished at Porthwrinkle after 6pm but was still feeling OK.

Today, Helen is returning home for a few days with the camper so it's back to the heavy rucksack.  Not bivvying tonight though, as I end up in Plymouth where my brother Jeremy lives and I'm staying at his.

A hard day - medication needed

Chocolate and Banana Pasty

I started yesterday with a gentle 3 mile warm-up to Mevagissey where I found myself in a bakery eyeballing this Chocolate and Banana pasty.  Slightly warm, it was as lush as you might imagine.  A good job I had this extra fuel, as what lay ahead nearly killed me.  8 miles of nightmare walking - very steep stepped climbs, very steep stepped descents, very steep off-camber wiggly paths.  You get the drift.  When I finally reached my lunch stop at Charlestown, I had to have a pint of Betty Stoggs ale to revive me. 

After lunch (and another beer), I still had 10 miles to go.  Helen walked with me for the first section to Par Sands which was much flatter.  After she turned back, I found myself enjoying a pint of Timmy Taylor's Landlord (the best beer in the whole world) at Polkerris.  The final few miles flew by although on the approach to my destination of Fowey I was really trudging.  Only one thing would revive me, straight to the pub for a couple of pints of Betty Stoggs Big Sister.  And some lush fish and chips.

Today is Polruan (opposite Fowey) to Porthwrinkle via Polperro and Looe.

Bank Holiday closures

It must be a Bank Holiday ... path closures and rain.  Yesterday I started from St Anthony (Falmouth) and walked to Portscatho before breakfast, which disappointingly didn't feature coffee as nowhere opened until 11.  On the way to my lunch stop at Portloe the path was closed because of a 'landslip and unsafe bridge'.  As the diversion would add 2 miles of road I decided to ignore the closure and climb around the fencing.  Another mile on I came across the landslip which was nothing more than a small stream which had gullied out a couple of 1.5m deep by 2-3m wide ravines. I decided to climb in and out as it was too sketchy to jump the gap with my bad knees. 

On to lunch and a half hour snooze before the final 9 miles of the day.  As I reached Dodman Point it started to rain and, after walking on thinking it would just be a shower, I admitted defeat and put my jacket on before I got soaked.  H met me as I rounded Dodman Point (she was soaked) and we walked the last 3 miles on to Gorran Haven where I had a couple of pints of Betty Stoggs Honey beer.

Found a great value campsite, Tregarton Farm, where I listened to the rain and was glad I wasn't bivvying.  Woke up to sunshine.  I'm looking to do 20 miles to Fowey where we plan to have a meal out.

Pic's of the week

Ian's rucksack is size 9 LARGE

Highland cows in Cornwall

An oldie but stillearning its keep

Farming moment

On the cider at the beach

Yesterday's start was a short climb up to farmland by Porthallow harbour.  On reaching the top I watched the plastic sheeting being removed from the potato crop by a drum attached to the front-end loader of a tractor.  I pondered how the drum rotated at the correct speed so that the plastic film didn't snap or snag.  I guess there was some gismo somewhere that worked it all out.  Within a couple of miles I was following the estuary towards Helford.  This is a very pretty wooded section with bluebells and wild garlic interspersed with the odd cove/fishing hamlet. I took the optional ferry at Gillan with 4 other walkers; Barry, Moira, John and Cath who gave me £10 towards the walk.  As a charity walker I was informed by Des (my boatman) that the ferry was free so I said I would donate the £4 fare.  Just before Helford I stopped at Riverside cafe for coffee and got another £2 from the staff.  My best day's takings so far for my fundraising.

On through Helford to catch another ferry then on to Maenporth for lunch.  I saw the kids in the pic there.  It was so nice there that I was reluctant to get going again, but had to finish the last 5 miles to Falmouth where I finished very early at 4.

I'm a little ahead of schedule, so today I will be walking 23 miles from St Anthony to Gorran Haven.   It sprinkled with rain during the night but is sunny this morning.

Passed the half way point

Half way point, Five Pilchards Inn behind

Within 30 minutes of yesterday's start I saw a Peregrine falcon swooping through one of the many coves of the day.  Coffee and cake at the Lizard where there were many twitchers with their big lenses watching  choughs (not chuffs).  I stood for 2 or 3 minutes but still can't say I saw one.  Just before Cadgwith I came across a family pointing out to sea as they'd seen a basking shark just offshore.  Again I looked but apparently it had just dived so when I got to the village I consoled myself with an icecream topped with clotted cream and talked to a local who recommended a pub for our evening meal, even though it was a mile further on than planned.

Had lunch and a snooze before setting off for Porthallow.  The going to Coverack was pretty tough with a lot of steps and rocks but the scenery and weather were breathtaking.  Onwards to Porthoustock the coast path took its first real deviation inland, across fields and through country lanes.  H met me in one of these fields and we walked together for the last 3 or 4 miles.  The Five Pilchards Inn was the scene of a fantastic meal and 3 pints of IPA to celebrate the passing of the halfway point.  The SWCPA have erected a huge 'Halfway' plaque on the beach here but my GPS says that it's about 1 mile before this beach, in the middle of a field.  I've lost some of my initial exuberance from the start at Minehead, mainly because I'm frustrated about my painful knee, but am pleased to be on schedule and optimistic about the second half.

Today should be fairly easy walking from Porthallow to Falmouth, about 20 miles and includes a ferry across from Helford.

300 miles today

Little lizard taking it easy

On the trail at Penzance yesterday, I met a walker with a massive rucksack.  It was  Ian, a newly-retired policeman who is walking from The Lizard to John O'Groats over the next few months.  He is doing it unsupported and the rucksack weighs over 25 kg (my heavy pack is 13 kg inc water).  He was on day 3 and, by the way he was leaning over just standing still, I guess his knees will be feeling it soon.  Coffee at Chapel Rock with St Michael's Mount in the background, lots flies and midges all the way to Mullion Cove.  H walked with me for the last 3 miles from Poldhu where we had an icecream and the guy running the cafe gave me a couple of quid sponsorship.  Lanacane anti-chafing gel is a miracle!  No soreness at all even through 9 hours of very hot walking.

After today's walk, 20 miles from Mullion Cove around Lizard Point to Porthoustock I will be into the second half of the walk and soon to encounter several estuaries that will need to be crossed or walked round.

"Nothing but flowers"

Yesterday's 8am start was a good wake-up, a steep straight climb from Cape Cornwall cove to the top of the cliff.  Phew!  Another beautiful day from start to finish - I couldn't wish for better weather.  Met Helen for a coffee at Sennen Cove and reached Land's End shortly after.  Stopped there to take a pic but it was tacky, tatty and full of tourists so got out quickly and back onto the deserted path.  This only lasted til Porthcurno 6 miles later where I passed loads of tourists in flip-flops tackling the vertical rocky steps down to the beach from the Minack theatre.

Got to Lamorna at 5pm just before the icecream lady packed up and had a double scoop ginger choc and mint choc in a choc waffle wafer and sat on a rock to eat it.  Mmm ...  Then through Mousehole to Newlyn at 6.30.  Found a quiet layby away from the coast for overnight parking and to assess my new injury.  How can I put it?  I have chafing.

Today is Day 14, fairly easy going with a tough bit in the middle and aiming for Mullion Cove.  Found an anti-chafing gel in Tesco's so testing that.

Land's End!

Lumpy path

Achieved barely 2 mph over yesterday's 'severe' section because of the rocky, uneven terrain (see pic).  In many places you can't see the path, just rocks, and you have to pick your way through and over.  Good job I had my walking poles.  This was a remote stretch without civilization, not even an icecream van until the finish at Cape Cornwall.  The upside of this was the lack of dogsh*t on the path.  Despite 2 lots of suncream, I'm looking a little red now and, judging by the forecast, might get a little redder before the week's out. 

The best news of the day is that H has got the day off work so isn't leaving today and can stay down through next weekend (thanks Martin).  I'll eat and sleep better cos I'm often too tired to cook properly, and my bivvy bag is so tight it's hard to move and get comfy (let alone the hassle when it's windy/raining).

This morning I'll turn the corner at Land's End (258 miles), even though it'll be Thursday before I reach the half-way point of the path.

Longest day so far

Did the first 8 'strenuous' miles then met H for coffee at Portreath.  We were Reg & Doris, parked at the top of the cliff in the camper, drinking coffee from our thermal mugs with a slice of cake and admiring the view.  There was a cluster of cameramen with long lenses getting very excited about chuffs. 

Then another 17 miles to St Ives along clifftops and the never-ending beach at Hayle (2 miles).  At Hells Mouth I saw these seals sunbathing on the beach.  H walked the last bit with me and we reached the camper at 6pm.  The campsite has the most deluxe showers I've ever seen, not to mention stunning views over St Ives and the stretch of coastline I'd walked.

Slept well, am wearing new socks and pysching myself up for 18 miles of 'severe' walking (the toughest level).

I've pulled

Chanced upon a mermaid

Yesterday had my bowl of cereal on a bench outside Tesco Express like a tramp, then found Andy's Cafe where nice Andy gave me a cheap coffee.  Met my mate Oli at Perran Sands where he's on holiday with his family.  After a lovely lunch and a couple of cans of Stella at their caravan, I left my rucksack there and set off with him towards St Agnes.  Half a mile later we slipped into a pub for a couple of pints then ambled merrily another 4 1/2 miles, stopping regularly to eat flapjack or look at the view.  Ended up at the Driftwood Spars at 5pm to wait for H, drinking more locally-brewed ales.  She arrived at 9.30 to pick us up and drop Oli back.  Parked the camper in a layby but the road was busy and didn't sleep too well.

A lovely sunny morning after the drizzle of the last few days.  Luckily H can dry out my kit whilst I walk.

Friday at last

Yesterday started badly as I was woken by knee pain during the night.  It's the worst it's been so far.  And it was raining.  So, I pressed on and stopped as soon as I could for 2 coffees and some chocolate.  Then a couple walking their dog saw the sign on my rucksack and ran after me to find out what I was doing.  Both these perked me up and by the time I stopped for a pasty and pint at lunchtime things were looking up.

I slept much better last night at a campsite in Newquay (£5) and am really looking forward to today.  My mate Oli from way back early MTB days is walking with me from lunchtime, then H is coming down in the camper for the weekend.  Can't wait to ditch the heavy rucksack and walk with just a light pack.  I'll pass the 200 mile mark today.

Padstow was lush

Random bit of path

It rained all morning but a good chance to test the hood on my new North Face Goretex jacket.  It worked really well, snug to my face, with a peak and didn't get blown off.  Trivial, but not to me.  Had bacon and eggs in a cafe for lunch then got the ferry over towards Padstow.  There was an ex-army guy on the boat who was interested in what I was doing and he grilled me about all the kit I used.

I arrived in Padstow late afternoon, booked myself in at the campsite and had a welcome shower.  Lovely neighbours, Cynthia and Norm, made me a cup of tea then it was off to town for a slap-up meal.  Chose Rojanos (it opened at 6) and had calamari, linguine marinara with rocket salad, panna cotta with red fruits and a couple of pints of Doombar.  Happy (very).  I'd recommend the restaurant ... great food and excellent service.  Then back to the campsite and crawl into my bivvy bag.

Rain again this morning as I set off to Newquay.

Fellow nutters

I've just overtaken Mike Lawrence this morning.  He's doing the whole path in one go and started 4 days before me.  He was amazed that I'm camping on the path, he's doing B&Bs.  I'm aiming to complete in 30 days, he in  47.  See him at http://www.swcpchallenge.webeden.co.uk/.  I also met some guys who are motorcycling around the whole of the UK coast (though not on the path, thankfully).   It's great talking to these people and it's boosted my motivation.  Mind you, the coffee and choc cake in Port Isaac may have had something to do with it too.  Last time H and I reached here, we saw Laurence Llewelyn Bowen and family but they weren't around today.

Padstow today

Sid the Snake

Great weather for walking yesterday, sunny but not too hot.  The stretch from Crackington Haven to Tintagel is beautiful and I saw quite a few seals.  However, the strain is reaching my knees and I find myself really trudging up the climbs and mincing down them.

Got a good night's sleep as it stayed dry and can't wait to hit Padstow this afternoon.  I'd promised myself a good rest there but now I've got ahead of schedule it seems a shame to lose that gain.  We'll see.  Rain forecast today.

Ahead of schedule

All morning yesterday (Mon) was misty, windy rain and v hard walking, then it cleared and was sunny as the path got less steep.  My new camping stove has broken so no cups of tea.  I bought a new knee brace in Bude which is much better than my old one.  Also, passed a "500 miles to Poole" sign.

Whilst I was looking for somewhere to sleep last night, I came across a pub so couldn't resist a bowl of chips and 2 pints of Tintagel Gold.  However, this meant I had to get up twice in the night which is tricky from a bivvy bag.  Must drink earlier in future.  The wind and badger paranoia kept me awake til 2 as well.

My schedule gets me to Polzeath tomorrow night (Wed), passing through Padstow on Thursday morning.  What I'm hoping to do is walk an extra 3 miles so I reach Padstow tomorrow afternoon instead, then splash out on some nice food and maybe even set up my bivvy at a campsite.  I've already walked a bit extra yesterday so got beyond Widemouth Bay, and am hoping to reach Port Isaac tonight although it's a tough last section.

Rain!

What lies ahead today

After all this sunshine it was a change to wake up to drizzle.  However, I'm ready for today.  The first 16 miles has 10 super-steep ups and downs and this stage is about the toughest of the whole coast path. 

For those of you into statistics, I'm doing about 21 miles per day at an average 3 mph.  I haven't planned any short days or days off so it's this pace and distance every day.  I've only been overtaken once so far (by a runner).  I started in Somerset (where the sea was brown), will leave Devon today (sea nice and blue) and cross into Cornwall just above Bude.  Amazingly, I have no blisters at all. 

Yesterday after a hard section on my own, Tim Greenland, Peri, Topsy and Ginnie (golden labrador) joined me for the section to Clovelly where we met H for a picnic lunch.  It was great to have company and they kept up well.  They left after lunch though (couldn't take the pace) and I cracked on to Hartland Quay.  The highlight was descending into Hartland Point and the nice ladies in the icecream kiosk staying open a bit longer for me.  Cornish icecream with a huge blob of clotted cream and a flake - bliss!

H is going home today so I'll have the big pack on and will camp on the path tonight. 

The first 100

Stretching in Tesco's car park

I reach my first 100 miles today.  Thanks for the sponsorship and comments coming through.

Saturday's walk was fairly easy with the first 16 miles on the flat Tarka Trail around the Barnstaple estuary.  Met Helen for lunch at Bideford and had what is turning into being a habit, a 1 1/2 hour siesta.  Then onward to Westward Ho which is not the prettiest resort you come across in North Devon.  Evening was spent in a wonderful campsite where we sat outside enjoying a beer amongst the washing (I only have 3 pairs of walking socks).

Later today I'm being joined by Peri, Tim and his sister for the first 'Strenuous' section (according to the book) as I head for Hartland Quay past Clovelly.  Knee still a little dodgy and swollen but I feel much better than Friday, which so far was my lowest day.  It makes a big difference having a light pack. 

Still going

Camp spot (see big hill behind?)

Sorry for the blog gap, getting a signal is much harder than I thought. 

Back to Thursday evening.  Whilst I was tucking into fish and chips, a policewoman stopped to chat.  She was worried about me sleeping on the path and advised me not to use any lights in case someone alerted the coastguards.  Not much chance, as I've been going to sleep around 9pm.  Later that night, I was startled awake by something tugging the bivvy bag just near my head.  It was a badger and I'm not sure who was more frightened.  It ran off but I put my red flashing torch on for the rest of the night, and took ages getting back to sleep.

Friday's walking was hard.  My legs ached and my right knee was very painful especially on the downhills.  The Lee Bay to Woolacombe section took me from sea level to the top of the cliff and back again 7 times in 5 miles.  I've started having snoozes during the day, lying out in the sun.  A grass snake passed by and there are lots of butterflies around.  The last bit of the day's path was 7 miles around the estuary but I could see that the road cut across in only 2 miles.  Frustrating, but at least the path was flat.  As Helen would tell you, I'm a purist and can't cheat.  She arrived in the camper at Braunton and we parked up at Tesco's.  It was great to have a shower, and I slept like a log in a proper bed.

Today I'm feeling good although my legs ache.  H is carrying the gear so I only need a light pack today, and I've got my shorts on.  It should be a fairly flat day. All good.

Reception at last...

Just got to Combe Martin (35 miles) and had an all day breakfast.  Spent last night with the goats in the valley of rocks.  The wind picked up and was rattling the tarpaulin so at midnight I dragged the whole lot to a more sheltered spot and slept much better.

I'm off!

I'm on my way, and what a beautiful day.  Feeling fresh and raring to go (this may not last.)

All the gear, no Idea...

Just packed my rucksack with all the kit I need for the walk and it comes in at 9.8 kg without carrying any water..  As I've done some training walks with 15kg I hope it won't prove too much.  Note my solar panels for the Power Monkey which will charge my phone & GPS.  Thanks to Neil for the loan of this.

Shame about the wind...

Thermarest works great but it didn't stop the recycling bin bouncing off my head in the early hours.  Boy was it windy.  I gave up at 6:00 and went inside to grab a last hour of sleep before work.

Thermarest try-out...

Today one of the last bits of kit arrived, my new Thermarest NeoAir which is very small and super lite.  So with my first night less than a week away it's time to bivy out in the garden to test it.  Lets hope it's as good as people say and the fox doesn't come sniffing round the garden in the wee hours.

I have a plan...

After 3 weeks of walking training with my fully loaded rucksack I have now finalised my itinerary of where I plan to reach each night if I'm to complete the path in 30 days.  It's going to be tough, especially in the first week as I try and go from walks of 15-18 miles on the relative flat of the Somerset countryside to the 21 miles a day with the ups and downs of the coast path. An interesting statistic I have recently discovered is that the total height climbed has been calculated to be 114,931 ft (35,031 m), almost four times the height of Mount Everest during the 630 miles!

Checking out my new boots...

Just back from Brittany where I checked out my new Salomon Quest 4D GTX (now they sounds fast) with a short 2 hour walk on the coast path.  All good from the boots point of view and I must say that the Brittany coast path sections are as good, but not as well maintained, as those on the SWCP.  Next test will be sleeping out in the garden in my bivvy bag...

It's all coming together....

I'm currently walking 10-20 miles a week with loaded rucksack and buying/blagging as much lightweight kit that I can lay my hands on.  I'm begining to realise how hard this is going to be....

Pic of me enjoying an ice cream in Cornwall 2009.  I hope to have many more during the walk!